08 July 2012

Mt Kuring-gai

This route is called Tickfest, grade 22, at Carbon Credit area of Lost and Found Wall in Mt Kuring-Gai. very hard to off the ground.
Remember to bring brooms and wire brushes with long handle.

22 October 2011

Wind Cries Mary wall in Gorse Valley

(For full description of the route, click the title above, and scroll down in "The Fortress.")

Typical Blue Mountains' sand stone route opened this year.
This is starting point to abseil down 3 times. Before going down make sure no one is below you, and shout "ABSEILING" as the basic rule, since our 1st abseiler dislodged many rocks with the sound of a landslide. 

Left side vertical wall of the video below is "Wind Cries Mary."

At the end of 3rd rap we could not find starting spot of P1 of "Wind Cries Mary." which was shared with "Tom Thumb."  Took long time to realize that we mistakenly stopped abseiling at the top of P1. better to memorize the guide about where to stop.

At our 1st pitch which was P2(45m, grade 18) needed 8 hangers and 3 cams, we learned that most foot holds were so soft that the leader must be very cautious to protect himself and his belayer by placing his toes carefully on the wall, but not on holds. This style converts grade 18 to 19, and 19 to 20.

After leading P3(pic below, 35m, grade 19,) George is belaying with 3 new carrots.

To lead P4 (30m, grade 18, pic below) needs to use a tree for this overhang start as there was no protection with fall factor 2. If a hand hold comes off at the overhang start, the leader will hit the ledge without spotting as the belayer was hanging still far below at the 3 carrots. So keep the tree alive.

Knowing the risk that I might hit the ledge if a hand hold snapped, i went the overhang start. As the second i would not go to the valley that what I thought. As soon as off the ground I shouted "take" to my leader who was top belaying at 30m above me and hardly hear me. I could NOT yell loud enough to reach him as I was overhanging that was out of my calculation. The lucky thing for me was to have the another team "Pom" who were climbing Tom Thumb and taking our pix sometimes, echoed my small yell to my leader. The slack had gone. 
Though without the slack I was still not sure that I could avoid hitting the ledge if one of the 2 handholds had a problem as the pitch was 30m long. 
I would not climb here again just after rain. These sand-stones are soft after rain and easy to break off if not getting enough sun light to dry.

19 September 2011

Chasing Amy Wall

After warning up at Shipley Upper behind him, we moved to challenged Cutopia (sport 23) and 1800 Traverse (sport 19)

Track Care September 2011

08 September 2011

Introducing Blue Mountains Track Care

This Sunday 11th Sep is Blue MOuntains TrackCare day at Shipley Upper. 3rd day of this year. Gathering start 8am till 3pm. The map.

The main purspose of Track Care is to prevent erosin by making steps along walking track and to control rain water running. So we can walk into crag safely.

Damien is the key person who has been organizing Track Care with collecting support from local businesses for BBQ lunch for volunteers with his wife and their children every time, and collecting rewards from climbing businesses.
He is regular climber as well.

The location that year was straight extention of Centennial Glen Rd. A dozen of climbers gathered despite the wetty forecast.

10th SEPTEMBER 2010

About 20 people (not only climbers) helped this time.
The BBQ lunch was brought down to crag. 
10th NOVEMBER 2010

Rewards : Gym entry voucher, sling, karabiner, shirt, hand cream, etc.

Big John paid again for the chopper to bring the stones in to Shipley. 

There are 4 fun days a year for volunteers to gather in Blue Mountain to maintain walking track for climber and bush-walkers.

The council provide all the equipments including protection.
So just bring water, sturdy boots in old cloths.

RSVP essential for catering and gear preparation to dtaylor@bmcc.nsw.gov.au or on 4780-5361, tho still you can turn up.

03 September 2011

Successful climbing on Hang Over

At Barrenjoey headland i could not take off the ground onto "Cosmic Ecology" trad 14, this time. I could not believe myself that I made it a month ago. (I blame my hard climbing, grade 20 and 21 at Bonnet Bay on the day before.) So instead I went to "Hang Over" trad grade 9, then we felt that it was the hardest grade 9. We celebrated our success at the top.

06 August 2011

Cosmic Ecology

Cosmic Ecology
What a wonderful puzzle it is getting off the ground!
(Trad grade 14, Southwest Barrenjoey, Sydney, NSW)

Our 1st time climb at "Cosmic Ecology." This route was fun for me, but not for Anna who freaked out in case of swinging out and being scraped off.
It is physically grade 14 but mentally it is more than that.
If she were in the middle of the rope, and were belayed by Heaven and Earth which means, not only being belayed by top belay, but also by bottom belay, she could perform better.
The Heaven and Earth belay will give her an additional feeling of being secured to avoid swinging out much if she have to.

Additionally as a lead climber, I could have had added an another protection between Red and Green cams.